Questions About Gates, Openers and Entry Systems

An automatic gate that stops and backs up is usually doing what it was built to do: something told the opener there was an obstruction. The common causes are a photo eye knocked out of line or dirty, a worn roller or dry hinge that makes the gate work harder than the opener expects, or limit settings that have drifted.

Check that nothing is in the gate’s path and that both photo eyes face each other squarely. If it still stops, call us and describe exactly where in its travel it stops.

Usually, yes. Sagging comes from worn hinges, a hinge post that has leaned, or a gate frame that has racked out of square. Caleb looks at which of the three it is before suggesting anything, because re-hanging a gate on a leaning post only brings the sag back.

Metal gates and posts move with temperature, and frost can lift a post slightly. A latch that lined up in September can miss by a few millimeters in January. Adjusting the latch or keeper usually solves it; a post that heaves every winter needs a closer look at its footing.

If an automatic gate reverses, stalls or moves in jerks, run it as little as possible and keep people and cars clear of its path until it has been checked. A gate whose safety sensors or reversing do not work should not be used at all. A manual gate that drags can usually be opened carefully by hand in the meantime.

It depends on the space. A swing gate needs clear room for its leaves to open, and a driveway that slopes up from the gate can stop them. A sliding gate needs a straight run beside the opening at least as long as the gate itself. Where both fit, swing gates are simpler; sliding gates suit steep or short driveways.

We install and repair wrought iron, aluminum and wood gates. Iron is heavy and strong, aluminum is light and does not rust, and wood gives a solid, private look but moves more with the seasons.

Yes, if it is planned for. A gate that may be automated later should be hung on posts and hinges that can carry an opener, and the power and wiring route are easier to plan before the driveway is finished. We also add automation to existing manual gates.

We ask what kind of gate you want, what it needs to do and how often it will be used, then set a time to see the site in person. Caleb takes measurements, checks the ground and the power, and explains what he found before a start date is set.

Swing gates take either articulated or linear arm openers mounted on the post and gate, or underground operators hidden below the gate. Sliding gates use a motor beside the opening that drives a gear rack on the gate. The right one depends on the gate’s weight, length, style and how often it opens.

A humming opener is getting power but cannot move the gate. On a sliding gate it can be a stripped gear or rack, a seized roller or something jammed in the track; on a swing gate a binding hinge or a failed capacitor in the motor. Switch it off and call us rather than pushing the gate by hand while the motor is engaged.

Most openers have a manual release, usually a key or lever on the motor, that lets the gate be moved by hand. Many models can also take a backup battery. It is worth knowing where your release is before you need it.

If the gate has an opener, a keypad can usually be added on a post at the driveway, set back far enough for a driver to reach from the car window. We set up keypads and intercoms on existing gates as well as new ones.

A keypad opens the gate for anyone who knows a code. An intercom lets a visitor call the house, and someone inside opens the gate for them. Many properties use both: codes for the household and regular visitors, the intercom for everyone else.

Most keypads have a master code that lets you add and remove entry codes. The steps differ by brand and are in the keypad’s manual; it is worth asking for them when the keypad is set up.

A gate that is opened many times a day, or an automatic gate on a busy property, benefits from a check at least once a year; a lightly used manual gate needs less. Before winter is a sensible time, so hinges, rollers and sensors are in good order before the cold.

Generally: checking the hinges or rollers for wear and lubricating them, tightening hardware, checking the gate for level and clearance, testing the latch, the opener’s force and limit settings, the safety sensors and the reversing, and looking over the wiring and controls.

Keep the track of a sliding gate clear of leaves, stones and snow, wipe the photo eye lenses, watch for a gate that starts to drag or sag, and listen for new grinding or squealing. Leave adjustments to the opener and its springs or arms to a technician.

Gate openers sold in the U.S. are built to UL 325, which calls for protection against someone being trapped by the gate: typically photo eyes and edge sensors that stop or reverse the gate. The gate itself should be built so people cannot be caught in gaps or openings, which is what the ASTM F2200 construction standard covers.

It depends on the town and the job. Fences and gates past a certain height, work near the street or the sidewalk, and new electrical work can each need approval, and a gate across a driveway may have to allow fire department access. Check with your city or town building department before the work starts.

Massachusetts law requires a call to Dig Safe (811) before digging, so underground gas, electric and water lines are marked first. Post holes and trenches for gate wiring both count.

Call us or send the form on the Book an Appointment page with a few words about the gate you have, or the one you want. We ask what kind it is, what it does when it fails and how often it gets used, then set a time to see it in person.

Yes, by email. A picture of the whole gate, one of the opener or hardware, and a short video of the problem help us prepare for the visit.

Caleb Foster, the owner, comes out to look it over, take measurements and check the hardware and power. He explains what he found, and once you agree on the work, we set a start date.